The rain began to let up just as I pulled into the parking lot. Getting out of the car my eyes were immediately drawn to the bright yellow of the ripe Natsu Mikan and their contrast against the white plaster walls of the 250-year-old Kumaya house museum.
Built in 1768, the museum is an exquisite example of a middle Edo period merchant house and is in the heart of Hagi city. The grounds consist of the main house, an annex, two large treasure houses and several storehouses. Enclosed by tall white walls capped with black ceramic roof tiles the scale and opulence of the Kumaya house museum are second to none. Throw in history and you are in for a real treat.
Opened in 1965, the old storehouses have been converted into a museum where the family’s private collection including folding screens by the 16th century artist Sesshu and an early 19th century English piano gifted to the Kumaya by the German physician and botanist Phillip Franz von Siebold are on display. After viewing the museum’s collection visitors can enjoy a short stroll through the manicured grounds to reach the main house and annex.
Built in traditional Shoinzukuri style, the eight-room main house still retains its original kitchen and stove. The twenty-tatami mat main living room features beautifully carved wooden screens, high ceilings and a large wooden alcove. Visitors are asked to refrain from walking directly on the tatami but for those who want a closer look, you are welcome to remove your shoes and step up onto the veranda and walk along the outside perimeter of the house.
The garden with its mature trees, stone path and stone lanterns is filled with history as well. The trees along with the large treasure houses served as the perfect background for Noh plays. It was said that the old Lord of the Choshu clan would sit in the main living room to watch plays being performed for him. Dotted throughout the garden are five stone lanterns that were given to the Kumaya by the powerful Kajima family of Osaka.
Origins
The Kumaya story begins with Yoshiatsu Goemon Kumaya. Known for his business acumen and intellect, he was chosen by the Mori family, the hereditary leaders of the Choshu clan, to go to Osaka for business and trade. While little is known about his life, an anecdote that gives us further insight into his character does survive.
After Yoshiatsu’s stint in Osaka was over, he had to make his way back home with his large fortune in tow. On the final leg of his journey, he needed to cross the Seto inland sea to finally reach Choshu. Knowing that pirates frequently raided ships in the area, Goemon waited at the Inn he was staying in until one day a large storm came. Calling the inn keeper, Goemon requested of him to acquire a boat which was captained by a captain who was unmarried, free of responsibility to loved ones and most importantly not afraid of death. Surprised, the Inn keeper hesitated and asked Goemon why he wanted to leave when the risk of danger was so great. Goemon replied that the storm increased the likelihood that he would not encounter the pirates as they would be less likely to be out when the seas are rough putting their lives at risk. Letting the pirates get their hands on his fortune would be the last thing he would have wanted. However, if his ship were to sink the debris would mostly likely end up in Choshu where his return was anticipated and the treasure, he had worked so hard to get would mostly likely find its way, not to the pirates, but to the fishermen would probably fish it out of the inland see the following day.